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STEP 1.
Make a template using the manila folder. Cut out a rectangle measuring 3 1/2"
x 2 1/2". Fold it in half lengthwise. Draw half of the shape you'll use for the
template, visualizing the fold as the middle. (I drew half of a teardrop.) Keeping
the paper folded, cut along the drawn line. Unfold the paper and oil one side.
STEP
2.
Tear off a piece of plastic wrap about 12" long and set it aside. Position approx.
1/3 oz. of PMC between 2 6-card stacks of playing cards, and bring the plastic
wrap across it all. Working through the plastic, roll the clay down to the level
of the card stacks.
Position the template, oiled side down, on the clay. Cut out the shape using
a pin tool and carefully use an oiled tissue blade to transfer it to a drying
surface. I used nonstick cooking "cloth" but a smoothed piece of plastic wrap
or an inverted dinner plate will do. Don't use waxed paper; it buckles. Cut out
the center circle using the 3/4" circle cutter (or cut around a penny with a pin
tool). The circles are not part of the final earring, but we'll be using them
later. Gently invert the drying surface to pop out the center circle. Lay it beside
the cutout shape to dry. Repeat for a second set of shapes.
Drying time depends on several variables: The thickness of the PMC, the weather,
the drying surface itself. For many PMC projects, you can hasten the drying time
with a hairdryer or by warming the piece in a 275°F oven for 15 to 20 minutes.
However, for carving, you'll want the pieces to be perfectly flat, so air-drying
them overnight is best.
STEP 3.
When the pieces are dry, hold the 2 shapes together, face to face, precisely lined
up, and refine the outside edges with a nail board or fine sandpaper (400- or
600-grit). I use a coarse (black) nail board to correct the shape, then a fine
board (pink) to bevel the edges. Use a piece of rolled-up fine sandpaper to smooth
the center circle.
 STEP
4.
It's time for the carving process. If desired, pencil in a few directional lines,
but avoid the urge to make a detailed drawing of what you want to carve. Too many
pencil lines serve only to confuse and distract. I've chosen a simple pattern
of lines, achieved through the 2mm V-gouge Micro Carving Tool.
At a height of 6 playing cards, the pieces are generously thick. However, since
you're carving both sides, work slowly and carefully regulate the pressure you
exert on the V-gouge tool so as not to go entirely through the piece.
 Save
every scrap that falls out as you work! Carving the front and back of both shapes
plus one side of both center circles will yield an ample amount of scrap for the
other pair of earrings. **3 & 4** Keep the hand that's holding the piece well
out of the way as you push the tool across the surface. You may want to wear a
leather thimble to protect the holding hand. You may interrupt the pattern on
the back of one of the earrings to add your initials, the year, and the designation
for fine silver, 999.
If you don't have a flexible-shaft machine or other electric tool, make a hole
now. You can drill leather-hard PMC by using a Kemper 2-sided hand drill or a
drill bit in the end of a pin vise. Remember that the hole will shrink about 30%.
STEP
5.
Now for firing. Although PMC is nontoxic before, during, and after firing, your
kiln may emit fumes, so it's a good idea to ventilate it. If possible, set up
a small fan to direct any fumes out a window.
Lay the shapes of a tile in the kiln. Fire at 1650°F (900°C) for 2
hours, then turn off the kiln and open the door for a few minutes to let the red
glow subside. Let the pieces air-dry or quench them in a Pyrex or metal dish of
water. Wear fireproof gloves and use barbecue tongs if the kiln is still hot.
 STEP
6.
Flatten any warping that has occurred in the firing process with your hands or
by tapping the pieces gently with a rawhide mallet. If you haven't drilled a hole,
do it now.
Although they will appear to have a whitish coating, your pieces are now fine
(pure) silver.
Working at a sink, put a few drops of liquid dish detergent on a brass brush
and scrub each piece to remove the whitish coating and reveal the glow of silver
beneath. (You can also remove the whitish layer by using a tumbler: 1 to 2 hours
with sterling silver and the manufacturer's recommended solution.)
A comparable piece of milled fine silver would be too soft for this earring
design. PMC, however, has a slightly different crystalline structure and is adequately
rigid.
STEP
7.
Antiquing silver is a 2-part process: darkening and lightening. First, oxidize
the silver by stringing the pieces onto approx. 4" of scrap brass wire (or other
nonferrous metal) and dipping them into liver-of-sulphur (see Toolbox for alternatives).
Wear gloves and glasses and avoid breathing directly over the solution. When the
pieces are oxidized (this will take less than a minute), remove them from the
solution and recap the jar. Wash the pieces in soapy water. Now lighten them by
cleaning the black from the non-carved areas with 0000 steel wool, synthetic steel
wool, or very fine abrasive paper (1,000- to 1,500-grit). Micron-graded polishing
paper also does an excellent job, as does 15 to 20 minutes in a tumbler. Wash
and dry the earrings and give them a final polish with rouge. Wash and dry again.
STEP
8.
Open the loop on the ear wire by turning it sideways with chain-nose pliers. Slip
on the earring and close the loop. Repeat for the second earring.
Celie Fago is a Bethel, VT-based
jewelry artist.
Click here for Part II of II: The PMC and
polymer clay earrings. |
Textured
Precious Metal Clay™ Earrings
