Bangle Bracelet made of wire and beadsClassic Black and White
One polymer cane with many looks


Beginner-to-Intermediate project

The long necklace shown on the right is a combination of techniques learned from many artists. I make it super long (usually 36" to 38") and it can be worn very long and elegantly or wrapped twice as a choker.

The necklace below combines caned clay beads with Bali silver and hematite cubes.

The shorter necklace, shown at the right, is 17" and uses a larger focal bead embellished with platinum-colored leaves, chunky hematite beads, and Bali silver. The Memory Wire necklace, shown left, utilizes a flower cane, two leaf canes, Bali silver, hematite, and liquid silver.

Since the day I began working in polymer clay, black and white canes and necklaces have been a signature of my work. I still love the look of always-elegant black and white, and I love to work on updating the look of black and white in the canes that I make. There are a couple of people that have influenced me and the direction I’ve taken in my art. One of those people is Marie Segal, a pioneer in the art of polymer clay. Marie is a very giving and sharing artist, who showed me a variation of this cane about seven years ago. I have since changed it and taken it in a direction that creates many different focal beads with just one technique.

Most of the beads shown in these necklaces all started with this one technique, a simple stacked cane that grades from black to white, and were created by altering this simple stacked cane. A basic knowledge of polymer clay, Skinner blends, and reducing canes is required to begin this project. I have found that working with PREMO!® polymer clay works for the canes that I make. There are a lot of other brands of clay out there; you might want to try and see which one works best for you.


Step by Step

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To create the focal bead:
• Black polymer clay
• White polymer clay
• Clay slicing blade
• Pasta machine
• Brayer, or smooth rolling tool
• Heavy duty magnet or wooden block
• Needle tool or rotary tool for drilling
Optional embellishments for your beads:
• Pearl polymer clay
• Silver polymer clay
• Darlin’ Designer Disks® (Large Leaves)
• Clay Gun or Sugar Craft Gun®
• Your pre-made canes reduced very small for embellishing

For information on supplies, please see the Annual Buyers' Directory.
Always ask for the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) for any materials you buy, which will give you reactivity, health hazard, and safe handling data.

 

Kathy Weaver is a jewelry designer whose main focus is beading and polymer clay. She is a founding member of the Ohio Lakeshore Polymer Clay Guild, a demonstration artist for Polyform Products, and teaches polymer clay techniques and beading nationally. You can contact her at Clay57@aol.com.

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Creating a ‘narrow’ Skinner blend.
Condition your black and white clay. Roll out the clay into sheets on the number 1 (or thickest) setting on the pasta machine. Cut rectangles out of each color, approximately 2-1/2" x 5-1/2". Cut right-angle triangles out of these rectangles and separate them.

To start the Skinner blend, take 1 triangle from each rectangle and press them next to each other to form a 2-color rectangle.

Press them together at the seam so they stay together.

It is useful to have a heavy-duty magnet or block of wood to set on one side of your pasta machine while rolling the clay through.

It will help control your blend by keeping it in the original narrow state (2-1/2" x 5-1/2").

Run your black and white rectangle through the pasta machine, placing the 2-1/2" side through first.

Fold the sheet in half and pass it through the machine again on #1.

Continue folding and rolling the clay, being sure to do it in the same direction each time, until you have a blend you are happy with.

 

The simple cane.
Once the narrow blend is complete, set your pasta machine on #4 or the middle setting on the dial and run the blend through, 2-1/2" side first. You should then have a longer, thinner, narrow blend of color.

Using your clay blade, cut off one end of the strip to square up the edge. Measure up the blend and cut off a 2" piece. Flip the cut piece over and lay it directly on top of the end you just cut from. You will be laying the white edge on top of the black edge. Continue cutting and flipping until you get to the end of your blend. You now have a cane that you can use to create different focal beads.

Reducing the cane.
Reducing a cane can be tricky, and everyone has a way that works best for them. This is what I recommend for reducing this cane.

Press your fingers into the sides of the block, then pull and stretch the clay, using both hands.

You may want to use your brayer or rolling tool to smooth out your rectangular cane as you continue to press and pull the cane. Continue to reduce until your cane measures about 1" by 2/3". It is at this point that we will cut the cane and rearrange it to create different canes and focal beads.

 


Basic focal bead.
To start the basic focal bead, take a piece of scrap clay and roll it into a log. The diameter of your log will determine the size of your focal bead.

Cut 2-4 very thin slices off your rectangular cane and layer them around the log, matching the seams. Make sure that you have completely covered your scrap clay. Gently roll the covered log on your work surface to smooth the seams.

With your clay blade, cut the logs flush at the edges of your cane. With your thumb and fingers, gently squeeze and smooth the edges of the log to bring in the edges of your cane around the exposed ends of the scrap cane log.

When you have finished you should only see your cane work, not any of the scrap log.

There are many different shapes that you can create by playing with your covered log. I will often roll the bead out longer, then flatten it with the lower portion of your hand, creating a paddle type bead. Other options include rolling the bead thinner and longer or twisting it to create a very different bead altogether. These are only a few options; the possiblities are endless. Have fun experimenting!

Taking the basic cane a step farther.
You can take this basic stacked blend a step further to create different canes (and different focal beads!). One option is to reduce the cane and cut it into 4 even pieces. Put the 4 pieces together to create a basket-weave like cane.

Another option would be to reduce the cane and wrap it with a sheet of black clay, rolled through the pasta machine on the #4 or middle setting. Reduce the cane further and cut it into 6 pieces. Put them together, surrounding a thin black log to create a flower bead.

A third option would be to shape your stacked blend into a round cane, then cut it into 5 pieces. Form a black log and place each of the 5 cut pieces around it, forming a different type of flower bead. They all work! Reduce one of these flower canes further to use as an embellishment. If you plan on doing this, you have to be patient and let the cane rest before slicing.

Embellishing the focal bead.
You can use your focal bead as it is or embellish it with cane slices or clay extrusions. To create the platinum-colored leaves, mix 1 part silver with 1 part pearl, a blend I learned from Mike Buessler. Place it into the clay gun and extrude the clay using a Darlin’ Designer Disk® leaf shape. Cut off thin slices from the extruded leaf log. Then apply the uncured slices to the uncured focal bead.

You can also embellish the focal beads using small slices of your reduced canes. To apply the slices, be sure to apply uncured to uncured as you did with the leaves.

At this time, you can put holes in your beads with a needle tool or wait until after they are baked and drill them.

Once you are happy with your beads, place them in a preheated toaster or convection oven and bake according to the clay manufacturer’s recommendations.

Once the beads have cured and cooled, they are ready for stringing. You can string them with as many different types of accent beads as you like. I’ve always liked sterling silver and hematite with black-and-white caned beads, but of course the choice is yours.




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